说到美国顶尖的时装学院,很多人都会选择Parsons和FIT,想去美国的小伙伴们99%都是说:“老师~我想去Parsons或者FIT~”但是你得知道,这两家申请的不同。
Parsons全称Parsons The New School for Design,全美第一的艺术设计学院。在美国“实用主义”的大背景下,Parsons在培养学生的过程中,除了一贯的贴紧市场玩商业,更加注重创造力的展现,关注学生的“脑洞”,偏向体现“设计感”。相对而言,在工艺、制版这些需要耗费大量时间累积经验的方向上会放松一些。这点从BFA的学生作品上就能够得到很好的体现。
Parsons The New School for Design, Fashion Design BFA学生作品
更近一步的论证来自于从Parsons毕业正站在时尚尖尖上的那些人,Alexander Wang,Yohji Yamamoto,Marc Jacobs…无论是设计、结构还是剪裁,无一不透着Parsons血统里的创新性。
作为全美第一的时装学院,每年自然有无数双眼睛盯着他,那么想要超越竞争者跻身Parsons家族需要做什么呢?下面是原文搬运Parsons官网作品集要求:
Parsons Challenge:
Create a new visual work inspired by the theme within a piece submitted in your portfolio. Support your process by writing one 500 word essay describing how your ideas developed. You may also submit up to two additional visual pieces that document your process. All forms of media are acceptable—drawing, video, photography, sculpture, 3D work, collage, and digital images. The Parsons Challenge helps the Admission Committee understand how a prospective student develops ideas, visually communicates those ideas, and defends the work in writing. The Parsons Challenge is completed in SlideRoom along with the portfolio.
25Portfolio: The portfolio must be completed in SlideRoom only. Freshman and transfer applicants must submit a portfolio of eight to 12 images. Portfolios can include a range of media such as drawing, painting, sculpture, fashion design, animation, performance, graphic design, or sketchbook pages. We encourage you to show experimentation and breadth, and the portfolio does not need to specifically address the major to which you are applying.
26Essay: The New School brings together a dynamic group of students interested in art, design, performing arts, entrepreneurship and critical thought. We would like to know more about your interest in joining our community and why you would be a good fit for The New School. We are particularly interested in knowing why you have applied to a specific school, college, program, area of study, or campus.
总结起来三点:1. 一本8-12页的作品集,不限媒介不限形式不用太专业,但是要展现你的思维你的热情你research和延伸设计的能力。2. 从作品集的项目里选一个作为灵感创作一个新作品,并且告诉我们你的想法是怎么发展出来的。3. 写一篇作文,告诉我们你为什么要来Parsons以及我们为什么要收你。
从作品集的要求中不难看出,Parsons对于申请人的专业要求相对来说并不是太高,毕竟学校不认为高中生能够做出一件“正经”的成衣出来,直白点说,BA四年有大量的时间花在教你怎样思考调研设计制作上,如果你什么都会了为什么还要去上学呢?
而申请Parsons最重要的是两个略显飘渺的词——“Creative”和“Passion”。这恰恰是从事时尚行业的人最 需要的质素——Creative是我们赖以生存的本能,而Passion则是在无数个通宵之后坚持下去的精神支柱。不要小看“Creative”这个词,它不仅仅是你脑子里的一个或者一大堆想法:怎样把idea变成一件作品,怎样把一件作品扩展成一个系列,怎样去调研、发展,更重要的是怎么停下来。
很多同学容易出现的问题并不是没有想法,而是想法太多不会梳理;能够开始但是停不下来。passion是有了,但是最后作品集呈现出的是一大片并不能称之为“creative”的,杂乱无章的idea。学校看不到你延伸设计的能力,看不到“experimentation and breadth”,又怎么会给你offer呢?
再看FIT,全名Fashion Institute of Technology,State University of New York,即美国纽约州立大学时装技术学院,这是一所公立学院,所以相较于Parsons来说学费非常低,也被评价为“学服装最划算的设计学院”。
既然校名里有一个“Technology”,可想而知FIT是个重视技术的地方。平面裁剪、制衣工艺都是需要花费大量的时间去练习的,因为只有不断的解决版型和缝纫上出现的各种问题,积累经验才能练成好的版师或者工艺师,这个过程需要10年20年甚至更长的时间。
在设计风格上可以参考历届“优秀校友”,比如Michael Kors,Calvin Klein和Carolina Herrera。
无论是学生作品还是成衣系列,FIT的毕业生们似乎都向着一个方向——简洁的廓形,冷淡的色彩。所以,如果你的设计理念和风格比较张扬,个人不建议选择FIT。
这样一个以严谨工艺技术著称的院校,作品要求跟外面那些妖艳Freestyle的学校一点都不一样呢~(以下英文官网搬运:)
PROJECT ONE:
Mix-and-Match Designs (3-6 images)1Create a mood/inspiration page for the following mix-and-match designs. The mood page should include an image(s) that has inspired you to create the designs in number 2 below. Include a short written explanation of how the designs have been inspired by the mood page image(s) and list the destination and season of the year when your designs will be worn.2Draw original garment designs in color using the medium of your choice. Show mix-and-match separates that work together.?Design a jacket?Design a top (use the top twice, once on each figure)?Design a pant?Design a skirtSketch the designs in color on two figures. Include back views of the garments on an additional figure or as a flat sketch. For portfolio submission, scan or photograph actual fabric swatches and identify the fabric on the front of the sketches. Submit 3 to 6 images for this project.PROJECT TWO: Fashion Design Artwork (4-8 images)
Submit four sketches of your original fashion design artwork on figures. Up to 8 images may be submitted.1Draw original designs in color. Use the medium of your choice. Note original artwork can be computer generated. Design sketches are to be on full-length fashion figures with back views.2Include scanned or digital photo of actual 2” x 2” fabric swatches on the front of each sketch. Identify the type of fabric (e.g. 100% wool gabardine).3Write 2 sentences for each image to explain inspiration or your thought process.PROJECT THREE: Sewing Project (4-9 photographs)
Submit photographs of two or three garments you have sewn (include front and back views). Samples are to demonstrate knowledge of construction. Originality, creativity, and design aesthetic are valued. Clothing is to be photographed on a person or dress mannequin. Garments can be created from commercial patterns or you can develop your own patterns or drape the design. Garment examples must be sewn. Do not show existing garments that have just been decorated.
Take photographs of the front and back of each garment, a third photograph may be taken to showcase special details on a garment. Up to nine photographs may be submitted for this project.
Provide 11-23 items. Images (up to 5MB each) and PDFs (up to 10MB each)
呐……是不是画风清奇?就差没告诉你一张纸什么地方放图什么地方放面料了哟~比起其他作品集要求只写一句“我们要个作品集”的学校,FIT实乃良心企业。所以准备的时候按照要求一项一项来就可以(对,意思就是我不会给你翻译的)。
需要注意的是,FIT是美国少数强制要求做成衣的院校,对于成衣的完成度要求也比较高。想要申请FIT的同学一定要苦练平裁和缝纫技术,以免作品集被考官嫌弃,也是避免上学以后被虐的太惨(比如一个前襟被勒令拆个二三十遍什么的)。
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作品集保录大师特训营5位顶尖艺术大学教授
目前,大师特训营仅剩5个招生名额,准备17年入学的童鞋们不要错过这个机会了!带着你的好友和作品咨询评估,你将有机会得到教授的推荐信,报名可与Ella老师联系,添加微信DNA_Ella或手机13717585562,详情请看:http://www.dnaarts.cn/。
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